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California's state capital, SACRAMENTO , in the flatlands of the
Central Valley, was founded in 1839 by the Swiss John Sutter. He
worked hard for ten years to build a busy trading center and cattle
ranch, only to be thwarted by the discovery of gold at a nearby
sawmill in 1848. His workers quit their jobs to go prospecting,
and thousands more flocked to the goldfields of the Central Mother
Lode, without any respect for Sutter's claims to the land. Sacramento
became the main supply point for the miners, and remained important
as the western headquarters of the transcontinental railroad. Flashy
office towers and hotel complexes have now sprung from its rather
suburban streetscape, enlivening the flat grid of leafy, tree-lined
blocks, and going some way towards resurrecting the rowdy, free-for-all
spirit of the city's Gold Rush past.
Sacramento is not especially prominent on most travelers' itineraries.
There's not a great deal to see, though the wharves, warehouses,
saloons and stores of the historic core along the riverfront have
been restored and converted into the touristy shops and restaurants
of Old Sacramento . On the northern edge of the old town, the California
State Railroad Museum (daily 10am-5pm; $3) brings together a range
of lavishly restored 1860s locomotives, with "cow-catcher"
front grilles and bulbous smokestacks. The old passenger station
and freight depot, a block south on Front Street, now serve as the
summer depot for a refurbished Central Pacific Railroad steam train
(summer weekends 11am-5pm; $6), which makes a seven-mile, 45-minute
round-trip along the river.
Further east, and isolated from downtown, the dome of the state
capitol stands proudly in a spacious green park two blocks south
of K Street Mall. Recently restored to its original elegance, and
still the seat of state government, the luxurious building brims
over with finely crafted details. Although you're free to walk around,
you'll see a lot more if you take one of the free hourly tours (daily
9am-5pm).
Sutter's Fort State Historic Park (daily 10am-4.30pm; $3), on the
east side of town at 27th and L streets, is a re-creation of Sacramento's
original settlement, dating back to 1839. An adobe house displays
relics from the Gold Rush, and on summer weekends volunteers dress
up and act out scenes from the 1850s.
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