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There's a lot more to NEW ORLEANS - the "Big Easy," the
"city that care forgot" - than its tourist image as a
nonstop party town. At once sordid and sublime, it careers along
under an infuriating doublethink. While having enormous amounts
of fun, you're liable to be repeatedly struck by the divisions between
rich and poor (and, more explicitly, between white and black). Even
so, the city's vitality and joie de vivre are real, buffeted but
not beaten by the vagaries of commercialism and poverty. The melange
of cultures and races that built the city still gives it its heart;
not "easy," exactly, but quite unlike anywhere else in
the States - or the world.
New Orleans began life in 1718 as a French-Canadian outpost, an
unlikely set of shacks on a disease-ridden marsh. Its prime location
near the mouth of the Mississippi River , however, led to rapid
development, and with the first mass importation of African slaves
, as early as the 1720s, its unique demography began to take shape.
Despite early resistance from its francophone population, the city
benefited greatly from its period as a Spanish colony between 1763
and 1800. By the end of the eighteenth century, the port was flourishing,
the haunt of smugglers, gamblers, prostitutes and pirates. Newcomers
included Anglo-Americans escaping the American Revolution and aristocrats
fleeing revolution in France. The city also became a haven for refugees
- whites and free blacks, along with their slaves - escaping the
slave revolts in Saint-Domingue. As in the West Indies, the Spanish,
French and free people of color associated and formed alliances
to create a distinctive Creole culture with its own traditions and
ways of life, its own patois, and a cuisine that drew influences
from Africa, Europe and the colonies. New Orleans was already a
many-textured city when it experienced two quick-fire changes of
government, passing back into French control in 1801 and then being
sold to America under the Louisiana Purchase two years later. Unwelcome
in the Creole city - today's French Quarter - the Americans who
migrated here were forced to settle in the areas now known as the
Central Business District (or CBD ) and, later, in the Garden District
. Canal Street, which divided the old city from the expanding suburbs,
became known as "the neutral ground" - the name still
used when referring to the median strip between main roads in New
Orleans.
Though much has been made of the antipathy between Creoles and
Anglo-Americans, in truth economic necessity forced them to live
and work together. They fought side by side, too, in the 1815 Battle
of New Orleans , the final battle of the War of 1812, which secured
American supremacy in the States. The victorious general, Andrew
Jackson , became a national hero - and eventually US president;
his ragbag volunteer army was made up of Anglo-Americans, slaves,
Creoles, free men of color and Native Americans, along with pirates
supplied by the notorious buccaneer Jean Lafitte .
New Orleans' antebellum " golden age " as a major port
and finance center for the cotton-producing South was brought to
an abrupt end by the Civil War. The economic blow wielded by the
lengthy Union occupation - which effectively isolated the city from
its markets - was compounded by the social and cultural ravages
of Reconstruction . This was particularly disastrous for a city
once famed for its large, educated, free black population. As the
North industrialized and other Southern cities grew, the fortunes
of New Orleans took a downturn.
Jazz exploded into the bars and the bordellos around 1900, and,
along with the evolution of Mardi Gras as a tourist attraction,
breathed new life into the city. And although the Depression hit
here as hard as it did the rest of the nation it also, spearheaded
by a number of local writers and artists, heralded the resurgence
of the French Quarter , which had disintegrated into a slum. Even
so, it was the less romantic duo of oil and petrochemicals that
really saved the economy - until the slump of the 1950s pushed New
Orleans well behind other US cities. The oil crash of the early
1980s gave it yet another battering, a gloomy start for near on
two decades of high crime rates, crack deaths and widespread corruption,
but by the end of the century the tide had begun to turn, and the
city now finds itself in relatively stable condition with a strengthening
economy based on tourism .
One of New Orleans' many nicknames is "the Crescent City ,"
because of the way it nestles between the southern shore of Lake
Pontchartrain and a dramatic horseshoe bend in the Mississippi River.
This unique location makes the city's layout confusing, with streets
curving to follow the river, and shooting off at odd angles to head
inland. Compass points are of little use here - locals refer instead
to lakeside (towards the lake) and riverside (towards the river),
and, using Canal Street as the dividing line, uptown (or upriver)
and downtown (downriver).
Most visitors spend most time in the battered, charming old French
Quarter (or Vieux Carré ), site of the original settlement.
On its fringes, the funky Faubourg Marigny creeps northeast from
Esplanade Avenue, while the Quarter's lakeside boundary, Rampart
Street , marks the beginning of the historic, run-down African-American
neighborhood of Tremé . On the other side of the Quarter,
across Canal Street , the CBD (Central Business District), bounded
by the river and I-10, spreads upriver to the Pontchartrain Expressway.
Dominated by offices, hotels and banks, it also incorporates the
revitalizing Warehouse District and, towards the lake, the gargantuan
Superdome . A ferry ride across the river from the foot of Canal
Street takes you to the suburban west bank and the residential district
of old Algiers .
Back on the east bank, it's an easy journey upriver from the CBD
to the rare-fied Garden District , an area of gorgeous old mansions,
some of them in delectable ruin. The Lower Garden District , creeping
between the expressway and Jackson, is quite a different creature,
its run-down old houses filled with impoverished artists and musicians.
The best way to get to either neighborhood is on the streetcar along
swanky St Charles Avenue , the Garden District's lakeside boundary;
you can also approach it from Magazine Street , a six-mile stretch
of galleries and antique stores that runs parallel to St Charles
riverside. Entering the Garden District, you've crossed the official
boundary into uptown , which spreads upriver to encompass Audubon
Park and Zoo .
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