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Long after sailors, fishermen and agricultural colonists had domesticated
the entire coastline of New England, the harsh, glacier-scarred
interior of NEW HAMPSHIRE , with its dense forests and forbidding
mountains, remained the exclusive preserve of the Algonquin Indians.
Only the few miles of seashore held sizeable seventeenth-century
communities of European settlers, such as Strawbery Banke at Portsmouth
.
Even when the Indians were finally driven back, following the defeat
of their French allies in Canada, the settlers could make little
agricultural impact on the rocky terrain of this "granite state."
Towns such as Nashua, Manchester and Concord grew up in the fertile
Merrimack Valley, but not until the Industrial Revolution made possible
the development of water-powered textile mills did the economy take
off. For a while, ruthless timber companies looked set to strip
all northern New Hampshire bare - very few of the trees you see
now are original growth - but they were brought under control when
the state recognized that the pristine landscape of the White Mountains
might turn out to be its greatest asset. Large-scale tourism began
towards the end of last century; at one stage fifty trains daily
brought travelers up to Mount Washington.
Ever since becoming the first American state to declare independence,
in January 1776, New Hampshire has been proud to go its own idiosyncratic
way. The absence of a sales tax, or even a personal income tax,
is seen as a fulfillment of the state motto, "Live Free or
Die." Alternative sources of revenue include state-owned liquor
stores in which, unlike in neighboring states, you are able to purchase
alcohol on Sundays. The stores were set up after the failure of
Prohibition, and have been enthusiastically promoted ever since:
they even have them in freeway rest areas. The state has long gained
inordinate politi cal clout as the venue of the first primary election
of each presidential campaign, with its villages well used to playing
host to would-be world leaders.
One less ideological aspect of New Hampshire's individualism is
the emphasis on a healthy outdoor lifestyle. Hiking, climbing, cycling
and skiing are enjoyed both by energetic locals and by the many
visitors who drive up from Boston and New York. The major destinations
are Lake Winnipesaukee , and Conway, Lincoln and Franconia in the
mountains further north. Some have grown rather too large and commercial
for their own good, but if you steer clear of the paying "attractions,"
the lakes, islands and snowcapped peaks themselves remain spectacular.
To see the bucolic rural scenery more usually associated with New
England, take a detour off the main roads up the Merrimack Valley
- to Canterbury Shaker Village near Concord, for example.
Manchester has a small airport , but travelers coming to New Hampshire
from far afield usually do so via Boston's Logan Airport, approximately
45 minutes to the south. Concord Trailways (tel 603/228-3300 or
1-800/639-3317, ) runs buses from there to Manchester, Concord,
Conway and Franconia. Vermont Transit (tel 1-800/451-3292, ) runs
from Boston to Conway and Franconia, and at weekends (Fri, Sat &
Sun) also connects Conway with Burlington and Montréal. The
closest Amtrak service is to Claremont or on to White River Junction
in Vermont, across the state line from Hanover. A surprising number
of cyclists set out to tour the mountains.
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