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The island of MAUI , the second largest in the Hawaiian chain, is Oahu's fastest-growing rival, attracting roughly a third of all visitors to the state. Some would say that things have gone too far. What were once remote, unspoiled beaches, around Kaanapali and Kihei for example, have been swamped by sprawling resorts, and Lahaina , once "whaling capital of the world," is now little more than just another tourist trap.

On the other hand, the crowds come to Maui for the good reason that it's still beautiful. This is probably the best equipped of all the islands for activity holidays - whale-watching, windsurfing, diving, sailing, snorkeling and cycling. Temperatures along the coast can be searing, especially at Lahaina, but it's always possible to escape to somewhere cooler. Upcountry Maui , on the slopes of the mighty Haleakala volcano, is a delight, well away from the bustle; Makawao and Paia here make good alternative hangouts, although they're short on accommodation. Finally, the waterfalls and ravines along the tortuous road out west to Hana outclass anything on Oahu.

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