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As big as the other five New England states combined, MAINE barely
has the population of tiny Rhode Island. In theory, therefore, there's
plenty of room for its massive summer influx of visitors; in reality,
the majority of these make for the southern stretches of the extravagantly
corrugated coast . You only really begin to appreciate the size
and space of the state further north, or inland , where vast tracts
of mountainous forest are dotted with lakes, and barely pierced
by roads - more like the Alaskan interior than the RV-cluttered
roads of the Vermont and New Hampshire mountains, and ideal territory
for hiking and canoeing (and moose spotting).
Although Maine is in many ways inhospitable - the Algonquin called
it "Land of the Frozen Ground" - it has been in contact
with Europe ever since the arrival of the Vikings , around 1000
AD. For the navigator Verrazano, in 1524, the "crudity and
evil manners" of the Indians made this the "Land of Bad
People," but before long European fishermen were setting up
camps each summer to dry their catch. Francis Bacon in turn said
that the English were "worse than the very Savages, impudently
lying with their Women, teaching their men to drink drunke, and
? to fall together by the eares."
North America's first agricultural colonies were in Maine: de Champlain's
French Protestants near Mount Desert Island in 1604, and an English
group that survived one winter at the mouth of the Kennebec three
years later. In the face of the unwillingness of subsequent English
settlers to let them farm in peace, the local Indians formed a long-term
alliance with the French, and until as late as 1700 regularly drove
out streams of impoverished English refugees. By 1764, however,
the official census could claim that even Maine's black popu lation
was more numerous than its Native Americans.
Originally part of Massachusetts, Maine became a separate entity
only in 1820, when the Missouri Compromise made Maine a free, and
Missouri a slave, state. In the nineteenth century, its people had
a reputation for conservatism and resistance to immigration, manifested
in anti-Irish riots. The state's economy has always been heavily
based on the sea, although many of those who fish also farm, and
long expeditions are now rare. Recently they have been selling their
catch direct to Russian factory ships anchored just offshore. Lobster
fishing in particular has defied gloomy predictions and has boomed
again as evidenced by the many thriving lobster pounds.
Maine's climate is famously harsh. In winter, most of Maine is
under ice; summer is short and usually heralded in early June by
an infestation of tiny black flies. Fall colors begin to spread
from the north in late September - when, unlike elsewhere in New
England, off-season prices apply - but temperatures drop sharply,
becoming quite frosty by mid-October.
The vast majority of visitors to Maine drive . The most enjoyable
route to follow is US-1, which runs within a few miles of the coast
all the way to Canada, with innumerable turnoffs to hidden seaside
villages. If you're in a hurry, I-95, initially the (tolled) Maine
Turnpike, offers speedy access to Portland and beyond. In the interior
, the roads are quiet and the views spectacular; many belong to
the lumber companies, who keep careful track of who you are and
where you're going (and charge you for the privilege). At any time
of year bad weather can render these roads suddenly impassable;
be sure to check before setting off (Nov-April call 207/287-3427
or visit ).
Public transportation , on the other hand, falls a long way short
of meeting travelers' needs. The six-times-daily Greyhound service
from Boston to Portland, three of which continue to Bangor, links
the main towns of the southern coast, as does Concord Trailways
(tel 1-800/639-3317, ), but that's about all. Except in high summer,
you can't get a bus any nearer to Acadia National Park or Bar Harbor
than Bangor or Belfast, and nothing at all runs north. Sadly, in
a state whose industry and tourism were once built on its railroads,
there is no longer any Amtrak service. A Canadian train runs across
the middle of the state to reach New Brunswick, traveling from McAdam
to Brownville Junction.
See what Maine car rentals has to offer today. Choose a link
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