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IDAHO , sandwiched in between Washington, Oregon and Montana, was
the last of the states to be penetrated by whites, and rivals Alaska
in the sheer scale of its barely explored wilderness areas. Though
much of its scenery amply deserves national park status, its citizens
have long been suspicious of encroachment by federal government
and tourism alike, and only now is its potential for adventurous
travel being appreciated.
With a marked absence of urban centers (the pleasant state capital
Boise , in the south, being the only real exception), Idaho is very
much a destination for the outdoors enthusiast. Natural wonders
in its five-hundred-mile stretch include Hell's Canyon , America's
deepest river gorge, the dramatic Sawtooth National Recreation Area
and the black, barren Craters of the Moon . Beyond these, hikers
and backpackers have the choice of no fewer than 81 mountain ranges,
interspersed with virgin forest and lava plateau, while the mighty
Snake and Salmon rivers offer endless scope for fishing and whitewater
rafting .
In 1805, Lewis and Clark declared central Idaho's bewildering labyrinth
of razor-edge peaks and wild waterways to be the most difficult
leg of their mammoth journey from St Louis to the Pacific. Only
their Shoshone guides enabled them to get through; to this day,
there is no east-west road across the heart of the state. Reports
of game animals tripping over each other in their profusion attracted
the usual legions of itinerant trappers, but the Gold Rush of the
1860s and white pressure for land hastened the violent end of traditional
life: four hundred Shoshone men, women and children were killed
along the Bear River in 1863, the Nez Percé were driven out,
and by the end of the 1870s the "Indian problem" had been
eradicated. The name "Idaho," incidentally, was invented
by a mining lobbyist, who felt it sounded Indian; it was originally
proposed for what is now Colorado.
The central wilderness still divides the state into two distinct
halves. The heavily forested north , interspersed with glacial lakes
now fronted by resorts like Sandpoint and Coeur d'Alene , has always
had strong trading links with Spokane in Washington; in the south
, irrigation programs begun in the 1880s - partly instigated by
Mormons - have transformed the scrubland to either side of the Snake
River into the fertile fields responsible for the state's license-plate
tag of "Famous Potatoes." Idaho's isolation, and small
(1 million) population, have kept it largely out of the mainstream
of recent US history; indeed, its remoteness has attracted assorted
unwelcome guests - neo-Nazi survivalists awaiting the Second Coming
and/or nuclear holocaust.
Bus services between northern and southern Idaho are very poor,
and a car is essential for extensive travel. Only one Amtrak route
crosses the state, ultimately linking Seattle with Chicago, and
stopping only at Sandpoint in northern Idaho, though Spokane is
not far across the border. Boise also has an airport , though Spokane
and Salt Lake City can be more convenient for northern and southern
Idaho respectively.
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