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The unattractive modern capital of Connecticut, HARTFORD , on the
Connecticut River, is also the insurance center of the United States.
Its central gold-domed state capitol , sitting on a hill in Bushnell
Park, houses a small museum of Connecticut history; free tours of
the capitol are available during the week from 9.15am until 1.15pm
(July and Aug until 2.15pm; April-Oct Sat 10.15am-2.15pm). Marginally
more thrilling is the antique merry-go-round in the park, which
gives jangling rides for 50¢. The Museum of Connecticut History
, across the road at 231 Capitol Ave, holds Colt rifles and revolvers
and the desk at which Abraham Lincoln signed the paper that emancipated
all slaves during the Civil War (Mon-Fri 9am-4pm, Sat 10am-4pm,
Sun noon-4pm; free).
Hartford's pride and joy is the Greek revival Wadsworth Atheneum
, 600 Main St, the nation's oldest continuously operating public
art museum, holding some 45,000 pieces, among which are many fine
and decorative arts, as well as Old Masters including Rubens' The
Return of the Holy Family from Egypt and, in the French Impressionists
collection, Renoir's Monet Painting in His Garden at Argenteuil
. Lectures and films are put on at the Atheneum Theater, and there's
an excellent café, too (Tues-Sun 11am-5pm; $7, free all day
Thurs & before noon Sat).
About a mile west of downtown Hartford on Hwy-4, a hilltop community
known as Nook Farm was home in the 1880s to next-door neighbors
Mark Twain and Harriet Beecher Stowe . Today their Victorian homes,
furnished much as they were then, are open for tours (Twain house
summer Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; rest of year Mon &
Wed-Sat 9.30am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; $9; Stowe house year-round Tues-Sat
9.30am-4pm, Sun noon-4pm; open Mon June to mid-Oct and in Dec; $6.50).
Twain lived at 351 Farmington Ave from 1874 until 1891, writing
many of his classic works including Huckleberry Finn , and he spent
a fair portion of his publishing royalties building and redecorating
this outrageously ornate home, with its unusual black-and-orange
brickwork and luxurious Tiffany stained-glass interior.
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